Want To Bring Back Epic Browser PROXY VPN and AD Blocker Button Icons to Toolbar?
Epic Browser is a great alternative to the browsers that come with your computer like Edge and Safari. It is considerably more secure. But recently, the Proxy VPN service that was activated by default has been made an extension, and to get it back there are a few things you need to do. To get started, you can either watch the video below, or continue reading.
Firstly, click on the three dots in the top right hand corner, the select “Settings”
From the menu that appears, select “Extensions”
You will now find yourself seeing the extensions that come with Epic Browser
In the bottom right corner of each item you will see a toggle switch, toggle both to the “On” position
Windows users will now see the icons restored to the toolbar. For Mac users there is a few more steps to go. Close out of the extensions page and click the “Extensions Icon” in the toolbar – it’s the one that looks like a jigsaw puzzle piece
You will see the Ad Blocker and Proxy VPN listed
Now click the little pin next to each item you want to see in the toolbar, I clicked all three
And now you will see the icons have been restored to your toolbar, and you can go back to enjoying this fantastic and free browser
Like many others, recently I have found I am unable to Add Media and Add Tags to my WordPress posts. The first thing I did was disable all of my plugins to make sure there wasn’t a conflict. In my cases there wasn’t, but its well worth trying this first. The next thing I did was switch my theme to the built in 2015 theme, and this fixed the problem. So I went to my normal theme creators web page and found that the theme had an update available, so I have downloaded and installed it this morning and everything is working fine again.
So in short, if you are having the same problem, try switching to another theme!
I’ve noticed recently that the home button on my iPhone has become a bit dodgy. It doesn’t always work, especially when I double click it for multitasking/app switching.
I had resided myself to believing that the actual button mechanism had worn and was malfunctioning, when my wife told me how to recalibrate it. I was dubious at first, but this little “fix” has solved my problem, and my home button is back from the dead!
To start the recalibration process, press and hold the lock button on the top of your device, just like you are going to turn it off.
Instead of sliding the red button with white arrow to the right, press and hold down the home button.
After about 5 or 6 six, your phone will go back to your home screen, and that is it! During that 5 seconds, your phone re-calibrated your home button, and with a bit of luck, everything will be like new again!
As mentioned in THIS post, I bought a WD TV Live Hub unit a month ago, and I have been fairly happy with it so far. The premise/purpose of the unit is good, it is well featured in hardware, but the firmware/operating system is not as good as it could be, given the potential of the units hardware capabilities. I have found it to be slow, kinda clunky, and a bit frustrating when it comes to finding media quickly, as I have a large collection. The current version at time of writing is 2.07.17. Since purchasing the machine I have tried several versions of the firmware, and have settled/rolled back (using WD’s own rollback instructions and previous OS builds on the WD Firmware Rollback Page) to version 2.04.13, which in my opinion, and the WD Community opinion, seems to be the best offering so far.
Last week however, my 3 week old unit simply refused to boot. It didn’t work. I would press the power button on the remote and see the screen above, and then the unit would just turn itself off. I tried the using the power button on the unit, and it yielded the same result, automatic shut down after the loading screen. I was quiet enraged. My wife gathered up the units box, dug the receipt out, and was set to drive me back to the store to exchange the unit, when I proceeded to do what any grumpy male geek with a failing piece of technology would do – I took to it with a screwdriver, pried it open and voided the warranty!
I did learn a lot about this unit during this process though, and will share it with you now – and as always, I am sharing MY experience! Should you CHOOSE to try to replicate my experience with your device, and FAIL, it is completely your own fault, and I take no responsibility what so ever!
After Googling the symptoms, it appears that this is a VERY common problem with this unit, and the folks at WD refuse to acknowledge it as an issue. However, there is a VERY simple fix, but it does involve opening the unit. Inside the box is the main PCB (Printed Circuit Board), and there is a smaller PCB for the POWER button connected to the main PCB with a few wires. This seems odd for the power button to be on a different board, but it is a gift from god that it has been designed this way. It seems that something on the smaller power PCB, or perhaps the power button itself shorts/fails, hence as soon as you start the unit, the switch thinks its been pressed and it turns the unit off.
The cure, simply disconnect the smaller power button PCB. YES, you read correctly, just disconnect it! There is a power button on the remote you can use to switch the unit on and off anyways. The ironic part of this is that I actually found it harder to open the unit than disconnect the power button PCB. My first instinct was to crank on the thick chunky bit of plastic with the scallop shapes, but I soon learned that this was just an aesthetic, the actual lid is the thin piece above the groove in the aesthetic scallop bit.
To open the case, take your preferred case opening screwdriver and insert it between the thick bit and the thinner top panel at the back of the unit above the composite (yellow) video output.
Once you have made a gap you will see the fastening tabs that hold the lid on, and its just a matter of forcing the top upwards and gently pushing the fastening tabs towards the inside of the case. Below shows you the different types of tabs you will need to defeat to lift the lid.
Once you have the lid off, its a simple matter off locating the power button PCB, and the wires that join it to the main PCB. The power button PCB wires mount to the main PCB underneath, but the white terminal is easily visible, and requires little effort to disconnect. I just flicked it of with the screwdriver I used to open the case.
Once the wire is disconnected, you can re-fit the top panel, plug the box in again, and watch your unit boot back into that familiar home screen!
Now, if you want to win a prize (Charlie Sheen’s Tiger Blood), look closely at the photo’s in this article and be the first to comment with the reason why everybody who reads these articles should take extra special note of my disclaimers, and why Australian Geek Guys die younger than American Geeks!
My Friend Jena has a pretty funny blog called “Mothballs don’t cover stink“, in which she shares stories of her adventures in “HR”. Jena also has a very popular blog for her Siberian Husky “Turbo” called “World Of Turbo“, which is also well worth a look at. Today Jena sent me a button that she made for The Webernets, that she intends to display on her cool blogs. If you would like to display it on your blog, please save it, or hot link from the image below.
You’ve been a great and loyal friend over the years Jena! Thank you! I would also love you to review that Roku box on this site, and any other tech stuff you feel strongly about! If you feel like you would like write an article or two here let me know, and I will send you a log in.
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